Tips for Hooded Eyes

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

I, like you, am a hooded eye girl and am constantly struggling to achieve the eye looks that brighten and lift or at least have a semblance of the looks non-hooded eye girls can pull off. So, in an attempt to make your struggle that little bit easier or to open a dialogue where we can discuss the best methods, I'm sharing with you my tips and tricks for how to wear eye makeup on hooded eyes.

1. Blend out, not up

One of my main problems with hooded eyes is we don't have as much space as other eyes shapes between our lashes and our eyebrows which means it can be difficult to achieve that perfectly blended crease without starting from mid-lid. The best tip I have for this is to blend your shadow outward instead of up. This serves to elongate and lift the outer corner by bringing the shadow out from underneath your hooded brow.

2. Wing straight out or down

I will always envy those that can paint a perfect cat-eye wing as it is simply impossible to achieve that crisp, even line with hooded eyes. My two tips are to instead wing your liner slightly downwards to give an exaggerated upper lash line. This may not work, though, if you have a dramatic hood as it could emphasise that and make your eye look more drooped. In this case, there is a technique of mimicking the classic wing but with a slightly different shape to suit the hooded eye better. This is incredibly difficult to explain in text so I'll instead link to a fantastic makeup artist, Sharon Farrell, who made a great video demonstrating this technique: Winged Liner for Hooded Eyes.

3. Line thinly to prevent transfer

I always hated trying to replicate the thick winged liner look from a few years ago and just ending up with a huge transfer line across my upper lid. Unfortunately, I realised one day that because of my limited lid space, a thick liner kind of makes it look like I'm not wearing any shadow anyway. The best compromise I could make would be to line your upper lash line with a much thinner line to allow the middle space between your lashes and crease to show through. This makes your eyes look brighter because the shadow draws attention to the middle of the lid and draws it forward. But, through a lot of trial and error I came to realise a few other things: 

a. Most liquid liner will transfer on to your lids. Due to the liquid formula, this type of liner does tend to heat up in contact with your skin and smudge or transfer throughout the day. If you can find one that doesn't, stick to it! But otherwise, I don't like taking the risk.
b. Gel liner will be your best friend. Gel liner is much thicker and less prone to smudging or smearing which will keep your liner in place all day without dreaded transfer.
c. When in doubt, set with black eyeshadow. Sometimes liquid, creamy products just won't cut it and when that's the case you can always set whatever liner you're using with a matte black shadow to keep it in place. The same way you set foundation or concealer, the eyeshadow will keep your liner from moving or melting.

4. Place lightest shadow on the inner and outer corner

Hooded eyes can often looked shadowed and dark because they're hidden under an extended brow. To combat this, try putting the lightest shadows of your look on the inner and outer corners right along the lash line. This will brighten and elongate the eye shape to draw attention to parts that are usually hidden by shadow.

5. Brighten the lower lash line

To make your eyes look bigger and more prominent use the lower lash line to brighten and widen the appearance of your eyes. Using a nude liner on the waterline gives the impression that you're eyes are wider and you're more awake and alert. Then, with shadow below the lash line, only line the outer half or 2/3 to make your eyes look bigger than if you were to line the entire bottom and close the eye in.

6. Avoid brow bone highlight

Most people like to highlight the brow bone to add dimension and shape to the eye. Hooded eyes already have quite a prominent brow bone which can make adding extra highlight a bit too much. If you still want to use a highlight, try going for a matte skin tone shadow that will contrast with your shadows but not place too much emphasis.

7. Draw inspiration from other hooded eyes

It can be difficult sometimes flipping through a magazine or watching Youtube tutorials when it seems like no one has the same eye shape as you. If this is the case, seek inspiration from bloggers or celebrities who do have hooded eyes. This will give you more ideas of looks that are best suited to your own eye shape. Some of my favourites are Keira Knightley, Jennifer Lawrence, and Blake Lively.

Do you have any tips of how to work with hooded eyes? Let me know!

xx Julia

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